|
|
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
The following, in the main, appertain to tropical freshwater tanks
Below are some frequently asked questions - commonly known as FAQs - which we hope may assist with any problems you have with your tank. If the answer to your problem is not covered below please feel free to call into the shop and discuss it with a member of staff. Although we are quite happy for you to contact us by telephone or e-mail we prefer to encourage customers to call into Fishworld as it's easier to discuss problems face to face. As, invariably, many problems with fish-keeping are linked up with water quality we would always advise customers to bring a sample of their tank water so that we can check the pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels - even if you have already checked it yourself!
CLOUDY WATER
Q: I've just set up my aquarium and have added fish but my water seems to be very cloudy
A: Cloudy water can be caused by a few things but, usually, it is from the 'new tank syndrome'. This is the result of an imbalance of bacteria which is growing at different rates during the cycle. As long as you haven't been putting handfuls of food into the tank, it is simply due to everything in the tank settling down. There is no need to panic and there is certainly no need to empty the tank. As a last resort, use water clarifying chemicals.
Above: Although this tank doesn't have any fish in it has
still
gone cloudy but this is mainly due to the sand in the bottom |
GREEN WATER
Q: My tank water is green
A: It is an algae bloom. You need to establish whether you have any extra light on the tank such as a bright window, an open doorway which is allowing sunlight onto the tank or even overhead fluorescent lighting (such as in a school or an office building). Don't use your tank light as a nightlight. If you're not growing live plants, then the tank lights should only be on for approximately 8 hours a day. Do some partial water changes and use fresh carbon in your filter.
________________________________________________
NEW FISH ALWAYS DIE
Q: Whenever I try to introduce more fish they always die
A: Always test your water before introducing more fish as the water parameters can change at any time. The most common cause of this is a pH drop which is sometimes ignored simply because all the other fish look healthy - this is because fish acclimatize themselves to problems with their water for a short time. It is only when newly introduced fish die that you realise there is a problem with the water.
|
NEW TANK SYNDROME
Q: I have just set-up a brand new tank. I added some new fish but they all died within a week
A: You have overloaded your tank's limit to control a healthy amount of growing bacteria which has contributed to 'new tank sydrome". You need to have patience and, initially, only add about 6 hardy fish. Then, test the water each week, keeping a particular check on the nitrite levels. Once your tank has gone through the cycle (nitrite levels have risen and then dropped back to zero) you can then start adding more fish - expect to wait between 4 to 6 weeks. |
WATER CHANGES
Q: When I clean my tank should I empty the whole tank?
A: No! Only partial water changes are required during regular routine fortnightly/monthly maintenance. You should aim to change no more than 30% at any one time. You can also clean your filter in the old water before throwing it away (never under the tap). This will ensure that the beneficial bacteria living in your filter will not be destroyed by the chemicals present in tap water. |
 ALGAE
Q: I have thick layers of green matter all over my plants and rocks - how do I get rid of it?
A: It is algae. If it is in thick layers or pieces you might want to first clean it off the inside glass and plants. Do some partial water changes and decide whether or not you have too much direct sunlight or an excessive amount of artificial light. Growing live plants helps to control this too because live, healthy, growing plants compete with algal cells for food - therefore reducing the amount of algae in your tank. |
FUZZY FLUFF
Q: What is all the white fuzzy fluff on my gravel, tank ornaments and plants?
A: It is old food and waste that has
rotted in the tank water and turned to fungus. You need to cut down on the amount of food you are giving and also do a gravel clean every time you do a partial water change. |
WHITE SPOT
Q: What are all those white dots on my fish's body?
A: It is what we refer to as Ichthyophthirius multifillis - commonly known as 'white spot' disease or 'Ich'.
It affects all freshwater fish and, under aquarium conditions, is very virulent. It can attach itself in the aquarium to such items as gravel or tubing where it will produce hundreds of young and, within 18-21 hours, they are released into the water. They actively penetrate the skin and gills and enlarge until they are visible to the naked eye as white spots. Medications are easily available and very effective. Raising the temperature slightly during the treatment will aid in your battle against the protozoan parasite. The use of freshwater aquarium salt is also suggested but check first to make sure you don't have any fish that cannot tolerate salt. |
 pH AND WATER HARDNESS
Q: What chemicals do you use to fix high pH and water hardness?
A: Water in various parts of the country may have different pH values. Ranges of 6.5 - 7.8 for freshwater species is ideal. From the hobbyists perspective, the most practical aspect of water hardness is that softer water has less buffering capacity. This means that pH can drop abruptly in a tank with soft water, whereas pH tends to be stabilised in aquaria with hard water. Too soft can pose management problems and, too hard, the same. Water hardness does not change the pH one way or the other - it just affects the water's ability to hold or stablise pH at one reading. There are plenty of easy-to-use products available to adjust the pH and GH but all must be used in conjunction with the appropriate test kit. |
 GOLDFISH BOWLS
Q: I have a goldfish bowl but every fish I have put in has died
A: Goldfish need lots of clean fresh water and enough oxygen to survive. Without at least one gallon of water for each fish, it will almost always die. Get him at least a small tank with a simple filter, keep it clean as described above and in a cool spot in the house. Basically, the same rules apply to goldfish as they do to tropical fish. Bowls are quite simply not adequate for fish. They are also usually unsuitable for fitting a filter into - which is your fish(es) life-support system. |
NUMBER OF GALLONS OR LITRES
Q: I'm not sure how many gallons of water my tank holds
A: Measure the inside dimensions of the tank in inches - length, width and height. Multiply the length x height x width in feet (eg 15" would be 1.25ft). Divide the total by 6.25 = UK gallons. (You can then multiply this total by 4.546 to calculate the number of litres. )
For example, if you need to work out the gallons in a 24" x 12" x 12" tank, you would tap into your calculator 2 x 1 x 1 x 6.25 = 12.5 gallons. (Remember to deduct approximately 10% from the total to allow for tank decoration.
|
FISH GULPING FOR AIR
Q: My fish seem to be gulping for air at the surface - what is wrong?
A: This could mean that your water pump or air pump might not be working properly or the tank is overstocked and the oxygen content of the water versus the amount of fish is insufficient. Test for anything obvious like nitrite or ammonia. Make sure that the temperature is not too high as this results in less oxygen in the water too. Remedy any of these problems and do a partial water change. The other problem could be disease - parasite infections such as white spot get into the fishes gills causing them serious breathing problems.
|
SNAILS
Q: I have lots of snails in my tank - how do I get rid of them?
A: Snails often browse on plants when supplies of prepared food, dead fish or algae are low. Chemicals for snail control are commercially available but many aquarists prefer more natural methods. There are some fish which eat them - the most favourite is the Clown loach, although they do grow quite large. |
 FEEDING WHILST ON HOLIDAY
Q: I am going on holiday. Should I get someone to feed my fish while I am away and, if so, how much?
A: Everyone has their own opinions on how to go about this but, in the end, sometimes getting a friend or relative to feed them when you are gone can be deadly. You can try one the following suggestions:
• Pre-measure small amounts of food into portions and label them one for each day
• Buy a well-known brand of automatic feeder that you can set yourself to the proper amount of food
• Holiday blocks of food are available for 3, 7 or 14 days
• Buy live foods as they are already portioned out - just tell your fish-sitters to pour in one bag a day. It is much harder to
overfeed fish with live food as any that doesn't get eaten immediately will stay alive until it does
More importantly, make sure you put a timer on the lighting on your tank so that it will still come on whilst you are away. More fish die through the lights going on and off at unexpected times, or not being put on at all,
than they do through not being fed for a few days. |
Return to top of page
|
.jpg)